• Back to Sam's Laser FAQ Table of Contents.

    Home-Built Laser Types, Information, and Links

    Sub-Table of Contents



  • Back to Sam's Laser FAQ Table of Contents.
  • Back to Home-Built Lasers Sub-Table of Contents.

    Introduction to Descriptions and Designs of Home-Built Lasers

    What is in this Chapter?

    Having survived a discussion of lab/workshop safety and requirements, vacuum systems, and glass working, it is now time to look into the detailed features and characteristics of the types of the lasers that are possible to construct at home. Information on each of these will be presented roughly as follows:
    1. Introduction and general description.

    2. Links to relevant Web sites with additional information.

    3. Photos or links to photos of completed home-built lasers.

    4. Diagrams showing major mechanical and electronic assemblies of typical home-built lasers.

    5. Summary of the major optical, physical, and electrical, characteristics and requirements, including an estimated 'level of difficulty' profile. See the section: Home-Built Laser Description.

    6. Any errata, suggestions, improvements, or other information that might simplify construction, alignment, enhance reliability, or boost power output, as well as identifying any special safety considerations.

    7. Email correspondance with those who have attempted their construction possibly including additional complete laser descriptions as in (4), above.

    8. Articles, newsgroup, and discussion group postings relating to amateur laser construction. Where the same type of laser (e.g., HeNe, Ar/Kr ion, CO2) is covered in Part II of this document, thise chapters should be read FIRST since the basic characteristics and principles of operation are described there.

      Home-Built Laser Description

      Each of the following sub-chapters include a description of the corresponding laser from the Amateur Scientist article of Scientific American (or the collection "Light and its Uses") if one exists. This will include a somewhat standardized summary of the most important physical, electrical, and optical characteristics of the laser including the resonator, and necessary power supply, and vacuum system or other special requirements. An estimate of the required skills and level of difficulty for each will also be provided.

      The format of the laser specifications will follow the general outline given below. (Since most of these are gas lasers many of the entries will be missing for the dye laser.)

      • Level of difficulty (rated L=low, M=medium, H=high):

        • Glass work (if any).
        • Fabrication (other than glass work).
        • Vacuum/gas handling.
        • Power supply.
        • Additional apparatus (optics, alignment jig, etc.)
        • Risks (high voltage, toxic chemicals, etc.).

      • Resonator:

        • Type/lasing medium (gas, solid, liquid). All but one of these (the dye laser) use gas or vapors from sublimation or heating of a liquid or solid as the lasing medium.

        • Bore diameter (ID/OD), bore length (millimeters/inches). The bore is the actual location where lasing action is supposed to take place in a gas laser. It may also be called the 'capillary'. While the overall laser tube may be much larger, and the electrical discharge is usually not confined to the bore, for all intents and purposes, one can assume that only the lasing medium inside the bore participates in stimulated emission because the discharge is usually much more concentrated there.

        • Total tube length - includes additional space beyond the actual bore (e.g., to the center of the Brewster windows).

        • Tube material - glass (soda-lime or borosilicate), Plexiglass, etc.

        • Electrodes (type, materials, construction) - All of these gas lasers use some variation of a cold cathode design.

        • Gas fill (Gasses, pressure/range, purity) - This will include pressures or partial pressures and molar/volume ratios.

        • Cooling (convection air, forced air, water) - All are convection air cooled except for the CO2 which is water cooled. Adding water cooling to the others like the argon ion laser may permit their output power to be boosted.

        • Coupling (internal mirrors, Brewster windows, etc.).

        • Mirrors (HR/OC, coating, figure/shape, reflectance, mounts, alignment). Most are dichroic type, either planar or confocal concave. Mirror mounts.

        • Total resonator length (mirror to mirror).

        • Vacuum system:

        • Requirements - low-medium (e.g., N2 laser, dye laser flashlamp) or medium (most others).

        • Sealed/flowing - All can be sealed to some extent though the lifetime of these home-made laser tubes is not that long. Thus, some means of regassing without glass work is desirable. The CO2 probably requires a flowing gas design.

      • Special chemicals/supplies required (other than gasses).

      • Excitation/Pumping:

        • Type (electrical/optical) - All the gas lasers are pumped electrically; the dye laser uses a flashlamp.

        • Power supply (DC/AC/RF, pulse, voltage/current/power/frequency, regulation).

        The following notation will be used to denote input and output connections:

        • G = AC line safety (earth) Ground.
        • H = AC line Hot.
        • N = AC line Neutral.

        • HV AC = the output of AC power supplies.
        • HV+ (or similar) = a positive output of DC power supplies but prior to any ballast resistor or special pulser.
        • HV- = the negative return for DC power supplies.
      The beauty of a home-built laser is that there is no law that says you cannot experiment with virtually all of these specifications. If you want to build a HeNe laser with a longer or narrower bore or with a large 'can' style cold cathode instead of a neon sign electrode - go for it! Boosting power output, in particular, may be quite viable especially for the pulsed lasers like the Ar ion and CuCl/CuBr with a more sophisticated power supply and additional (e.g., water) cooling.

      Duplicating (or improving on) a known commercial design rather than one from a 20+ year old article could very well result in higher efficiency and output power and better beam quality. See the section: Sam's Three Part Process for Getting Your Feet Wet in Gas Lasers for one possible approach to this.

      Estimate of Home-Built Laser Output Power

      None of the articles in "Light and its Uses' ever list the output power of the home-built lasers. This isn't surprising given the era (1960s for this one) and even the present high cost of laser power meters (see the section: What Makes a Laser Power Meter So Expensive?.

      Where possible, an attempt will be made to estimate the expected power (or at least an upper bound) based on tube dimensions, power supply, and other factors. At best this will be a wild guess but may provide some indication of the possibilities for improvement by tweaking the design.

      Note that this also means that it is NOT possible to determine the laser safety classification for these lasers. They maybe of very low power but this is not guaranteed. So, treat their output as at least Class IIIb (Class IV for the CO2 laser) until you can be sure that it isn't!



    9. Back to Home-Built Lasers Sub-Table of Contents.

      Home-Built Helium-Neon (HeNe) Laser

      Introduction to Home-Built HeNe Laser

      This was the first laser presented in the Scientific American Amateur Scientist columns only a couple of years after the invention of the laser and less than this after the invention of the HeNe laser! It is a very basic design as gas lasers go but due to the need for the need for extremely low amounts of contaminants in the gas fill does require a decent vacuum system and some use of nasty chemicals (at least as described) including fuming nitric acid for cleaning the glass laser tube before evacuation and dry ice/acetone slurry for the cold trap!

      HeNe Laser Construction References and Links

      I currently do not know of any on-line resources for totally home-built HeNe lasers.

      Home-Built HeNe Laser Description

      Although the helium-neon laser is one of the simpler gas lasers in existence, it is probably in the middle of the range of difficulty of home-built lasers discussed in this document and "Light and its Uses".

      Refer to Typical Home-Built Helium-Neon Laser Assembly for a simplified diagram of the overall glasswork and power supply electronics.

      • Level of difficulty (rated L=low, M=medium, H=high):

        • Glass work - M.
        • Fabrication (other than glass work) - M.
        • Vacuum/gas handling - H.
        • Additional apparatus - optical mirror alignment jig.
        • Power supply - L.
        • Risks (high voltage, toxic chemicals, etc.) - M.

      • Resonator:

        • Type/lasing medium - Low pressure mixture of He and Ne gas.

        • Bore diameter - 2 mm; bore length - 34 cm.

        • Total tube length (to center of the Brewster windows) - 45 cm.

        • Tube material - glass, type not stated.

        • Electrodes - Cold cathode type using neon sign electrodes or small aluminum cylinders. These are mounted in side-arms or in side-side-arms. The use a of larger side-side arm with a large can-style aluminum cathode might permit the laser to be run on a normal HeNe power supply.

        • Gas fill - 7:1 ratio of He:Ne at about 2.5 Torr.

        • Cooling - Convection air. Increased cooling is of little value.

        • Coupling - Pyrex windows, Brewster angle = 32.5 degrees from axis. Author suggests quartz windows to minimize heat losses (angle = 33 degrees from axis).

        • Mirrors - Dichroic, concave, f = 60 cm. Three-screw Adjustable Mirror Mount at each end. Reflection coefficient not stated for either mirror. Alignment using flash light bulb and beam splitter apparatus (described in article).

        • Total resonator length (mirror face to mirror face) - 57.5 cm.

        • Vacuum system:

        • Requirements - medium. Article calls for 10E-5 Torr which would be nice but perhaps not essential.

        • Sealed tube operation but limited life (perhaps 50 hours) before regassing is required

      • Special chemicals/supplies required - fuming nitric acid to clean laser tube glass parts before evacuation/baking/backfill.

      • Excitation/Pumping:

        • Type - electrical discharge.

        • Power supply - 9,000 VRMS, 18 mA neon sign transformer and Variac. The maximum optical output power was at 85 percent of full voltage.
        
               H o----------+ T1                T2   +---------o HV AC
                             )||               ||=||(
                      Variac )<--------------+ || ||(
                      0-110V )||              )|| ||(
                          5A )||    Neon Sign )|| ||(       Well insulated
                             )||  Transformer )|| || +---+  HV wires to HeNe
                         +--+        9KV,18mA )|| ||(    |  tube electrodes
                         |                    )|| ||(    |
               N o-------+-------------------+ || ||(    |
                                               ||=||(    |
                                               |   | +---|-----o HV AC
                                               |   |     |
               G o-----------------------------+---+-----+
                                                        _|_
                                                       ////
        
        

      Estimate of Home-Built HeNe Laser Output Power

      Given our knowledge of the construction of a modern HeNe laser tube and the type of power supply used, it isn't surprising that the available output power from this 20+ year old design will be less than optimal - probably a lot less!

      A modern tube with a 34 cm discharge length would be rated about 5 mW when run from a normal HeNe laser power supply (DC, constant current).

      • The actual bore of the HeNe laser from "Light and its Uses" is 34 cm in length with an ID of 2 mm. For its ID, this is rather short for a modern HeNe tube even if it is a multi-mode (non-TEM00) type. This is certainly going to affect efficiency but I have no way of really estimating by how much.

        For an HeNe tube, a wider bore doesn't necessarily permit higher power since the walls of the capillary apparently are important in depopulating higher energy levels. Therefore, I will assume that this is really equivalent to a 1 mm bore in a modern tube.

        Loss factor: .5.

      • The power supply for the home-built HeNe laser is AC from a 9,000 V, 18 mA (current limited) neon sign transformer run at about 85 percent input so it would probably be outputting about 7.65 KVRMS (10.8 KV peak, no load). On each cycle, the discharge will occur once the voltage across the tube exceeds a several KV, possibly 5 KV or more. Thus, a large percentage of each cycle is wasted.

        Loss factor: .5.

      • Once the tube starts conducting, the current will be limited to 18 mA but may not actually be anywhere near constant. The characteristics of the typical neon sign or oil burner ignition transformer is NOT of a constant current source, but of a relatively high value resistor in series with the output and a higher value of effective differential resistance. Thus, the actual current in the tube will be varying quite a bit during the period when it is conducting. There is no way to know over what portion of this variation the current is optimal or if the laser is even outputting at all! HeNe lasers only produce an output beam over about a range of current of 2:1 or 3:1 and the portion of this range where output is optimal (with minimal detectable change in intensity) may be much smaller. In fact, an output may be occurring mostly on some short portion of the rising and falling edges of the AC waveform!

        Loss factor: .5.

      • Losses due to the Brewster windows, impure gas fill, quality (or lack thereof) of the mirrors, and so forth, will reduce output still further.

        Loss factor: .5.

      Funny how all the 'loss factors' are the same, huh? Can you spell: WILD GUESSES?

      Based on these considerations, I would be surprised if the original design produced more than .5 mW. But the good news is that it might be possible to approach 2 or 3 mW without too much effort using a narrower bore, large can style cathode, and modern HeNe power supply.

      Comments on Alignment Procedure in "Light and its Uses"

      The second of the two articles on the HeNe laser: "More on the Helium-Neon Laser" provides an alternative procedure for mirror alignment which is both potentially dangerous and somewhat confusing.

      As described in the article, the procedure is extremely risky. The alignment is performed with the laser powered but presumably not lasing since a 'spoiler glass' - a glass slide - is placed in the optical path. While this probably is fairly reliable for the low gain HeNe laser (but I wouldn't want to bet my vision on it!), many other lasers have high enough gain that the losses introduced by the spoiler would NOT prevent lasing and a beam could appear without warning (once the mirrors are aligned well enough) as the adjustment screws are being tweaked! I would NOT recommend the procedure as described for any laser unless a more reliable method were used of preventing accidental lasing (like the use of a 50 percent neutral density filter).

      The description is also somewhat ambiguous. My interpretation is that the mirror closest to the observer is aligned first by centering the cross-hair image and then the other mirror is adjusted to center the 'moon' image. This is then repeated from the other end of the tube.

      Also, using red gelatin for the viewing filter would seem to prevent observing anything about the far mirror as this would require passing red light - the same color as what the mirrors are designed to reflect best - through the closer mirror.

      I would recommend using one of the other alignment techniques described in "Light and its Uses" or in the chapters in the document on HeNe and Ar/Kr lasers.

      Sam's Three Part Process for Getting Your Feet Wet in Gas Lasers

      The amount of preparation, acquisition of materials and equipment, and actual work that will be needed to construct a gas laser from scratch can be intimidating. So, here is a way of getting into it somewhat gradually.

      You will need the vacuum setup and a source of the HeNe gas mixture, but the serious glass working can be postponed for another day.

      The basic idea will be to start off with a laser resonator that once worked (a commercial HeNe tube) using a regular HeNe power supply. Inexpensive HeNe tubes and power supplies are readily available and therefore, much of the uncertainty can be easily eliminated so you can concentrate on the gas and vacuum issues.

      Part 1: Regassing a Sealed HeNe Tube

      This series of steps will allow you to replace or renew the HeNe gas in a common sealed HeNe tube with minimal fuss. If you are doing this to revive a tube (rather than to build your own laser), then Step 1 won't be needed!
      1. Locate a dead HeNe tube - or sacrifice one in the interests of science! What I mean by this is to start with a tube that is known to be in good physical condition - it worked out each day, took its vitamins, etc. :-) Maybe it is old and tired and needs new gas; perhaps it lases but is weak; or maybe you have 149 others like it and the overcrowding is unbearable. Since suitable HeNe tubes can be purchased for as little as $5 (possibly even less - see the chapter: Laser and Parts Sources) this isn't a huge investment. However, it must have been known to work - messing with mirror alignment is NOT something you really want to deal with - trust me! At least, not until Part 2.

        I would recommend something in the 5 to 10 mW range - large enough to be interesting but not so long as to possibly require magnets or other special attention to operate reliably.

      2. Very carefully breach the vacuum by nicking the end of the exhaust tube with a file - just enough so that the air goes in but you don't want to make a big hole yet because if there is any vacuum remining, it will suck in all sorts of junk. File all around the (metal) tube just to the point where it is about to crack. Once it is up to air, break off the tip and with as little delay as possible (i.e., minutes, not days), Epoxy a short length of metal or glass tubing to the remaining stub and cap the end until you will be actually pumping it down. This is your new exhaust port. With care, there will be only minimal contamination so an extensive bake-out will not be needed. A high vacuum needle valve can be added to make it semi-removable (but don't *count* on long life from your regassed tube).

        Note: Don't file all the way through as this will deposit metal particles and who-knows-what-else inside the tube.

      3. Hook this up to your vacuum/gas supply system. The gas valve to your HeNe bottle/cylinder/ampule should be closed and the vacuum valve to the pump(s) open.

      4. Pump it down as far as it will go (hopefully, this is a very small fraction of a Torr since you want it to be much less than the 2 to 5 Torr of working pressure for the HeNe mixture).

      5. Power it up using a power supply designed for the type of tube you are using! Note: Make sure the negative output of your power supply is at ground potential - else it will try to discharge through the vacuum hose to the pump earth ground!

        WARNING: The anode will be at a KV or more with respect to everything else! Cover, shield, or otherwise insulated it from accidental contact.

      6. Close the vacuum valve and open the gas valve a smidgen while monitoring pressure to raise the pressure of the HeNe mixture in the tube to its operating range of 2 to 5 Torr.

      7. Watch the color of the discharge and look for a laser beam. Once the gas fill has been purged of air and other contaminants and the pressure is within the required 2 to 5 Torr range, the color will stabilize with the familiar unsaturated redish-orange of a normal HeNe laser tube discharge.

      8. Depending on how high a vacuum your pump(s) can achieve and how much contamination was in the tube, you may have to repeat steps 4 to 7 several times. Hopefully, no actual baking of the tube will be needed.

      9. Experiment with power supply voltage/current, gas pressure, and He:Ne ratio if you have that option. Have fun!

      Part 2: Adding External Mirrors

      Now that you have successfully regassed and 'revived' a commercial HeNe tube, it is time to go one step further: Replacing the mirrors/mounts with Brewster windows and using the original mirrors/mounts to build an external resonator.

      Note: For this to work, both mirrors must be planar - otherwise, the added distance between them when mounted externally will mess up the confocal relationship that would have been present where one or both was concave. Alternatively, use mirrors from a *longer* HeNe tube (though I don't know if the mirror coatings are optimized for a particular length discharge or not).

      1. Fabricate a pair of Brewster window assemblies. These can be made from a glass or metal tube cut at the required Brewster angle for the type of optical material you will be using for the flats. See the section: Determining Brewster angle. A convenient length is between 1 and 2 inches. The inside diameter should be such that they can be slipped snuggly over the portion of the mirror mount attached to the ends of the HeNe tube once the adjustable section has been removed. Quarts optical flats are best for the windows since the quartz absorbs less light (which is converted to heat) but high quality super clean microscope slides may also work. See the section: Optical Windows.

        • A metal tube can be cut using a hacksaw or band saw and then carefully filed or sanded smooth and flat (at the required angle) and cleaned.

        • A glass tube can be cut on a diamond saw or using the Jig described in "Light and its Uses" for the HeNe laser. It will then need to be lapped to make a nearly gas tight fit.

        Use Epoxy to attach the windows to the tubes and let them set for a couple of days. Then clean them inside and out with denatured alcohol.

      2. After allowing air to enter the tube slowly if it wasn't already up to air, remove the adjustable portion of the mirrors mounts along with their attached mirrors from both ends of the tube (or one end only if you want to take this gradually). As with the exhaust tube, use a file to score around the thin section to the point just before the metal is penetrated. Snap off the mount and immediate cap the end(s) of the tube to minimize the possibility of contamination. Don't remove the mirror glass from the metal mounts - they are more convenient to handle. Set the mirrors/mounts aside in a tightly capped container until needed.

      3. Attach the Brewster assemblies to the sends of the tube using Epoxy taking care that they align at both ends and that the angle is maintained.

      4. Fabricate a 3-point thumbscrew Adjustable Mirror Mount for each end and fasten the amputated mirror assemblies you removed in step 2 to these using glue, screws, or clips.

      5. Use one of the alignment techniques from "Light and its Uses" or a green HeNe laser as described in the section: Argon/Krypton Ion Laser Cleaning and Alignment Techniques (these apply to other lasers as well) to align the mirrors without the modified HeNe tube installed.

      6. Mount the modified HeNe tube in position between the mirrors, fire up the pumps and power supply and have fun!
      If you really want to experiment and are doing this with an HeNe tube that was originally 30 cm or longer, obtain a set of mirrors designed for a green or other color HeNe tube at see if you can get something other than red light from your contraption!

      Part 3: Using Your Own HeNe Glass Work

      Now that you have a working 'Frankenstein' HeNe laser - one using a few transplanted parts - it should be a simple matter to substitute a fully home-blown tube of your own. I would recommend using a bore length of around 30 cm for a 632.8 nm visible red output with standard dichroic HeNe laser mirrors. This is long enough to produce a decent output power but short enough so that the tendency to oscillate at the very strong IR spectral lines is manageable without the use of arrays of magnets.

      You can use a pair of identical electrodes and the AC power supply described in "Light and its Uses". However, it would also be possible (with just a little more glass-work) to provide a large side-tube (which also provides a much greater gas reservoir) and aluminum (can) cathode as in commercial tubes with a regular HeNe (DC) laser power supply.



    10. Back to Home-Built Lasers Sub-Table of Contents.

      Home-Built Pulsed Argon and/or Krypton (Ar/Kr) Ion Laser

      Introduction to Home-Built Ar/Kr Ion Laser

      Although very similar in basic design to the home-built HeNe laser, in some ways, the Ar/Kr ion may be easier to construct and operate since pure argon, krypton, or a mixture may be used for the lasing medium and the quality of the vacuum system may be slightly less critical (though the better the vacuum, the longer the tube will operate between regassing - but this is a simple process). The power supply is a bit more complex but not by much given the existence of modern solid state high voltage rectifiers.

      Ar/Kr Ion Laser Construction References and Links

      I currently do not know of any on-line resources for totally home-built Ar/Kr ion lasers.

      Home-Built Ar/Kr Ion Laser Description

      Like the HeNe laser the Ar/Kr ion laser is one of the simpler gas lasers in existence, it is probably in the middle of the range of difficulty of home-built lasers discussed in this document and "Light and its Uses", perhaps a tad on the easier side.

      Refer to Typical Home-Built Argon Ion Laser Assembly for a simplified diagram of the overall glasswork and power supply electronics.

      • Level of difficulty (rated L=low, M=medium, H=high):

        • Glass work - M.
        • Fabrication (other than glass work) - M.
        • Vacuum/gas handling - M.
        • Additional apparatus - optical mirror alignment jig.
        • Power supply - M.
        • Risks (high voltage, toxic chemicals, etc.) - M.

      • Resonator:

        • Type/lasing medium - Low pressure argon or krypton or a mixture.

        • Bore diameter - 2 mm; bore length - 50 cm.

        • Total tube length - includes additional space beyond the actual bore (e.g., to the center of the Brewster windows) - 70 cm.

        • Tube material - borosilicate (Pyrex) glass except for the Brewster windows which are quartz.

        • Electrodes - Cold cathode type using neon sign electrodes. These are mounted in side-side-arms.

        • Gas fill - Argon and/or krypton at a fraction of a Torr to a few Torr (not stated).

        • Cooling - Convection air. Increased cooling would permit a much higher duty cycle and greater optical power output.

        • Coupling - Quartz windows, Brewster angle = 35.5 degrees from axis. The portions of the tube including Brewster windows are attached via glass ball-and-socket joints to permit fine tuning of Brewster angle and window orientation.

        • Mirrors - HR: Dichroic, concave, f = 120 cm; OC: Dichroic, planar. Three screw Adjustable Mirror Mount at each end. Reflectivity not stated for either. Alignment technique not stated - can use any of the techniques from this document or "Light and its Uses".

        • Total resonator length (mirror face to mirror face) - 85 cm.

      • Vacuum system:

        • Requirements - medium. Article calls for 10E-2 Torr but with a suggestion that a better vacuum would extend tube life.

        • Sealed tube operation but limited life (perhaps 1/2 hour) before regassing is required (but this is fairly easy).

      • Special chemicals/supplies required - fuming nitric acid to clean laser tube glass parts before evacuation/baking/backfill.

      • Excitation/Pumping:

        • Type - electrical discharge.

        • Power supply - 5,000 VRMS, 30 mA neon sign transformer and Variac with full wave rectifier and 1 uF, 5 KV capacitor. Triggering via external aluminum foil electrode wrapped around bore using Oudin coil. The spectral lines in the optical output will depend on power supply current to the tube.
        
                                                     D1
             H o--------+ T1                T2   +--|>|--+------+------+------o HV+
                         )||               ||=||(  10KV  |      |      |
                  Variac )<--------------+ || ||(        |      |      |
                  0-110V )||              )|| ||(        |      |      / R1
                      5A )||    Neon Sign )|| ||(        |     _|_ C1  \ 2M
                         )||  Transformer )|| || +-------|--+  --- 1uF / 3W
                     +--+        5KV,30mA )|| ||(        |  |   |  5KV \ 5KV
                     |                    )|| ||(        |  |   |      |
             N o-----+-------------------+ || ||(        |  |   |      |
                                           ||=||(   D2   |  |   |      |
                                           |   | +--|>|--+  +---+------+--+---o HV-
                                           |   |    10KV    |            _|_
             G o---------------------------+---+------------+           ////
        
        

        Triggering could be done using any of the pulse type HeNe starting circuits described in the chapter: HeNe Laser Power Supply Design but as above using the external electrode rather than a direct connection to the tube anode. Any similar xenon strobe trigger should also work.

      Estimate of Home-Built Ar/Kr Ion Laser Output Power

      Given our knowledge of the construction of a modern Ar/Kr ion laser tube and the type of power supply used, we may be able to guestimate an upper bound on the output power of this apparatus.

      A modern Ar/Kr ion tube with a 50 cm discharge length would likely be rated at over a WATT when run from a high current power supply. Obviously, since this one is pulsed at a very low duty cycle, the power will be much reduced considerably.

      • The actual bore of the HeNe laser from "Light and its Uses" is 50 cm in length with an ID of 2 mm. For its ID, this is rather short for a modern Ar/Kr tube even if it is a multi-mode (non-TEM00) type. This is certainly going to affect efficiency but I have no way of really estimating by how much. There has been some discussion of this on the USENET newsgroup sci.optics but I have been unable to locate the articles. See the section: Credibility of the Argon Ion Laser from "Light and its Uses".

        For a HeNe tube, a wider bore doesn't necessarily permit higher power since the walls of the capillary apparently are important in depopulating higher energy levels. I don't know how this affects ion laser performance. Therefore, I will assume that this is really equivalent to a 1 mm bore in a modern tube.

        Loss factor: .5.

      • The power supply for the home-built Ar/Kr ion laser is pulsed DC from a full wave rectifier 5,000 VRMS centertapped, 30 mA (current limited) neon sign transformer. The triggering is from an Oudin coil attached to an external electrode on the laser tube bore.

        For a 30 mA maximum source, a 1 uF capacitor can charge at 30,000 V/second best case. It is not clear at what voltage the tube will fire when triggered or how this related to actual peak laser tube current. There is no ballast resistor. In 1/120th of a second, the cap will charge to to perhaps 450 V (from a tube cutoff of 200 V).

        Best case, if the energy represented by the difference between 200 and 450 V when dumped into the tube with the optimum current of, say 20 A, the pulse width would be about 15 us (very wild guess!). Thus, compared to a modern ion laser run on a DC power supply, the ratio of output power to what is possible is about 1:(1.5E-5 * 120) or about 1:555.

        Loss factor: .9982.

      • Once the tube starts conducting, the current will be limited only by the effective discharge resistance, stray inductance, the ESR of the HV cap, etc. The current will NOT be anywhere near to optimal.

        Loss factor: .75.

      • Losses due to the Brewster windows, impure gas fill, quality (or lack thereof) of the mirrors, and so forth, will reduce output still further.

        Loss factor: .5.

      Based on these considerations, I would be surprised if the original design produced more than .1 mW. This based on a comparison to a typical modern Ar/Kr ion tube with a 50 cm bore outputting 1 W at 25 A. However, with a somewhat more sophisticated power supply and a water jacket for cooling (beware the high voltage!), it should be possible to boost this considerably. See the section: Constructing a High Power Ar/Kr Ion Laser at Home?.

      Constructing a High Power Ar/Kr Ion Laser at Home?

      I believe it should be possible to boost the power output of the argon ion laser in "Light and its Uses" somewhat by using a high temperature rated glass for the bore and adding a water jacket, but achieving power levels similar to commercial ion lasers is probably unrealistic. Aside from the cooling issues, a heated cathode would be needed. This might be achievable from a salvaged microwave oven magnetron - maybe. :-)

      Here is a set of questions from someone with somewhat grandiose ideas:

      "I am a laser hobbyist, and I *really* want to build something which produces a non-red beam. I already have a slew of diodes and HeNe's, but they are all red. I recently found the Scientific American book "Light and its Uses", and it has plans for an argon ion laser. The problem with these plans is that the tube is not sealed and it is a pulsed device with low average power. I want CW, with a sealed tube and a reasonable output. I have developed an idea for a CW argon laser with a ceramic tube and tungsten electrodes. I just have a few questions about the details.

      • Is it possible to attach borosilicate windows to a ceramic tube using pottery glaze as an adhesive and firing it at a relatively low temperature (cooled slowly over 3 days) without cracking the windows?

      • Also, if I use a 2 mm capillary for the actual lasing area (the discharge passes through it), how long should it be (how long is it in most argon tubes)? Can I use porcelain for this capillary without having it break down from the heat?

      • Can a 300 W light bulb filament (tungsten) serve as the cathode if I use a 5 A tube current? Finally, how well aligned do the Brewster windows have to be to avoid excessive beam attenuation?"
      I think you are probably biting off more than you can chew unless you have already built, say, the HeNe laser from "Light and its Uses". Argon ion laser tubes are not cheap - and for a reason. They have to deal with 500 to 1,000 W heat dissipation in the bore. And this is for the 'smallest' ion tubes putting out perhaps 10 to 100 mW! Cooling is NON-TRIVIAL!!!. If you look at photos of commercial argon ion laser tubes (see the chapter: Argon/Krypton Ion Lasers), they are MOSTLY COOLING FINS! The internal parts are made of BeO (beryllium oxide - powder is a bio-hazard) and tungsten!

      You probably won't end up with a sealed tube either - as it will have a very short life.

      Then, you need to have a vacuum system, tubing, gauges, the appropriate gasses, a 5 A or more 100 V current regulated power supply, etc.

      Light bulb filaments are not designed for emission - they are not coated. You would have to obtain a proper coated tungsten filament. And, of course, a 300 W bulb is only about 2.5 A so even if you were able to do this and sent current from both ends, you are on the hairy edge. A microwave oven magnetron tube filament might work although these are rated more in the 1 A maximum range.

      I must say that I encourage you to pursue your interests and passions, but perhaps start with something somewhat less ambitious!

      However, if all you want is a different colored laser, green laser pointers are coming down in price as are other Diode Pumped Solid State (DPSS) lasers:

      (From: Walter Burgess).

      If you want to try a different color, a green DPSS laser might be easier. An 808 nm diode laser emits into a Nd:YAG crystal (substitute Nd:VYO4 for better results). That crystal emits at 1064 nm. This is applied to a KTP crystal which doubles it to 532 nm which is green colored light.

      Credibility of the Argon Ion Laser from "Light and its Uses"

      When one compares a modern Ar/Kr ion laser tube with the one from the construction article, the latter has a much wider bore. This is likely to result in multi-mode operation which isn't a bad thing in itself but would preclude its use for interferometry or (gasp!) holograms.

      If you decide to attempt the argon ion laser, I would probably recommend using bore closer to 1 mm since this should assure TEM00 mode operation and is more typical of a commercial ion tube. Then, the current thresholds should be similar as well.



    11. Back to Home-Built Lasers Sub-Table of Contents.

      Home-Built Carbon Dioxide (CO2) Laser

      Introduction to Home-Built CO2 Laser

      The carbon dioxide (CO2) laser is the power house of the high tech metal working industry. Small CO2 lasers are used for marking of metal, wood, and composites, and in medicine and surgery. Even a 'small' CO2 laser produces 10s of watts of beam power and the largest are in the 100 KW range!

      Its output is at 10.6 um (10,600 nm) or mid-IR. This wavelength is about 10 to 30 times longer than the other lasers under discussion and often considered a source of a heat beam than a light beam. At this wavelength, normal glass and plastic optics are either too lossy or totally opaque so alternatives must be found both for the end-mirrors and any other mirrors, lenses, or prisms required by the external optical setup. Divergence/diffraction effects are also increased by this same factor so obtaining a collimated beam is also more difficult.

      Many common materials including wood, paper, plastics, composites, and properly prepared metal surfaces absorb quite well at this wavelength so the CO2 laser makes an effective marking, cutting, welding, and heat treating tool.

      See the chapter: Carbon Dioxide Lasers for more information on the characteristics and applications of these devices.

      It is possible for an amateur to construct a working CO2 laser in the 10 to 50 W range without too much difficulty - at least compared to some of the other types. A vacuum system is needed but the range of operating vacuum is modest - 10 to 100 Torr. And while several gasses are needed, the purity of the final gas fill isn't nearly as critical as for, say, the HeNe laser. With a bit of resourcefulness, no fancy glass work is needed. The power supply can be just a neon sign transformer on a Variac.

      My only complaint about CO2 lasers in general are that the beam is totally invisible and boring in some ways. :-) Otherwise, it is nearly the perfect choice for a home-built laser - high power, continuous operation, and relative simplicity!

      However, constructing a CO2 laser is still NOT easy in an absolute sense and you have to make a considerable commitment of time and effort in locating parts and materials, setting up your vacuum system and gas supplies, fabricating the tube and water jacket, constructing the power supply, and putting it all together, or you will end up with a box full of parts and equipment gathering dust in the attic.... :-(

      CO2 Laser Construction References and Links

      In addition to the article in: "Light and its Uses", an alternative is found in the Iannini books ([2] and [3]):
      • Build your own working Fiberoptic, Infrared, and Laser Space-Age Projects
        Robert E. Iannini
        TAB books, a division of McGraw-Hill, 1987
        Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17214
        ISBN 0-8306-2724-3

        This includes plans for a HeNe power supply as well as complete ruby/Nd-YAG and CO2 lasers and other interesting stuff. See the section: Iannini CO2 Laser Description for more information.

      • Go to the Amateur Laser Constructors web site for photos of a CO2 laser built by: Chris Chagaris (Email: pyro@grolen.com) (and possibly others as well).

      • David Knapp's CO2 Lasers page includes a paper which details his implementation of a small CO2 laser at CMU. There should be a variety of other files related to this project and lasers in general at this URL in the future (it says 'coming soon', whatever that means!).

      • Information Unlimited has plans and parts for a CO2 laser (probably the design from the Iannini book, above, since they provided all of the custom parts for these projects). IU will also sell you a CO2 laser head and power supply, as well as a completely built laser - supposedly. I have no idea of whether what they provide is credible for the price or whether it is likely to result in a working laser. Also see the sections: General Resources for Amateur Laser Construction and Iannini CO2 Laser Description for additional information.

      • MWK Industries also has plans (but no specific parts) for a CO2 laser.

      • Creative Visual Associates supposedly sell instructional videos relating to CO2 laser theory, applications, safety, several on CO2 laser construction and general laser information. However, there has been some suggestion that this site is not active due to their non-responsiveness to email requests.

      Some Photos of Home-Built CO2 Lasers

      (From: Chris Chagaris (pyro@grolen.com)).

      Home-Built CO2 Laser Description

      The CO2 lasers in "Light and its Uses" and the Iannini book [3] are very similar. They can be built without a need for real glass working (though the Iannini version does call for some) and WILL produce WATTS of beam power at 10.6 um.

      The summary below is for the CO2 laser from "Light and its Uses". Also see the section: Iannini CO2 Laser Description.

      Refer to Typical Home-Built Carbon Dioxide Laser Assembly for a simplified diagram of the overall glasswork and power supply electronics.

      • Level of difficulty (rated L=low, M=medium, H=high):

        • Glass work - L or none.
        • Fabrication - M.
        • Vacuum/gas handling. - L.
        • Power supply. - L.
        • Additional apparatus (alignment jig, etc.) - L.
        • Risks (high voltage, toxic chemicals, etc.) - M

      • Resonator:

        • Type/lasing medium - Low pressure mixture of CO2, N2, and He.

        • Bore diameter - 25.4 mm (1 inch), bore length - 45.7 cm (18 inches).

        • Total tube length (to mirror surfaces) - approximately 60 cm.

        • Tube material - borosilicate glass.

        • Electrodes - Cold cathode type formed by mirror mount/bellows assemblies at ends of tube.

        • Gas fill - Mixture of CO2, N2, and He (1:2:8 appears to be optimal where the partial pressure of He is 4 Torr). Pressure may range from 1 and 20 Torr. (A smaller diameter, e.g., 1/2 inch, tube will run at higher pressures.) The laser will work without He using a 1:2 ratio of CO2:N2.

          CO2 can be easily obtained from dry ice; N2 from filtered air (despite the presense of O2 and other trace gasses) apparently works well enough.

        • Cooling - Aluminum water jacket (12 inches long by 2 inch diameter centered on plasma tube) with flowing tap water. (Glass or Plexiglass could have also been used.)

        • Coupling - Integral to tube via metal bellows and 3 screw adjustments.

        • Mirrors - HR: Copper coated, concave, f >= twice the distance between the mirrors (about 112 cm); OC: Germanium or hole in glass (2.5 mm, !!) and IR-transparent window of NaCl (rock salt!), CaCl, or BaFl - but note that all of these are hydroscopic - water absorbing - so must be stored with a desiccant to keep them dry), planar. (Germanium is preferred but may be expensive.) Three screw adjustable mirror mounts are part of end electrode bellows assembly. Alignment using HeNe laser or a variety of other techniques.

        • Total resonator length (mirror to mirror) - Approximately 56 cm.

      • Vacuum system:

        • Requirements - Low to medium. A salvaged refrigeration compressor (using the suction side) may be good enough as long as it can achieve the vacuum needed for operation (going a lot lower isn't as critical with the flowing gas design). However, a conventional rotary two stage pump would be preferred (a single stage 'disto' pump should also work). See the section: Salvaged Refrigeration Compressors as Vacuum Pumps.

        • Flowing - The gas mixture and flow rate can be adjusted to optimize performance.

      • Special chemicals/supplies required (other than gasses) - Materials to perform the copper coating of the HR mirror if needed, desiccants to keep the OC coupler windows dry, etc.

      • Excitation/Pumping:

        • Type (electrical/optical) - Pulsating DC electrical discharge.

        • Power supply - 12,000 VRMS, 100 mA neon sign transformer and Variac with bridge rectifier (unfiltered). A set of 8 microwave oven HV diodes (2 for each leg of the bridge) can probably be used. Or, a stack of 1N4007s. The required PRV rating is about 18 KV (assuming your Variac only goes to 110 VAC).
        
                                                                 D1
                 H o--------+ T1                T2   +--------+--|>|--+---o HV+
                             )||               ||=||(         |       |
                      Variac )<--------------+ || ||(         |  D2   |
                      0-110V )||              )|| ||(      +--|--|>|--+
                         15A )||    Neon Sign )|| ||(      |  |
                             )||  Transformer )|| || +--+  |  |
                         +--+      12KV,100mA )|| ||(   |  |  |  D3
                         |                    )|| ||(   |  |  +--|<|--+
                 N o-----+-------------------+ || ||(   |  |          |
                                               ||=||(   |  |     D4   |
                                               |   | +--|--+-----|<|--+---o HV-
                                               |   |    |
                 G o---------------------------+---+----+
                                                       _|_
                                                      ////
        
        
        The laser can be operated on the raw output of the neon sign transformer (AC) but the efficiency and maximum power output may be lower (though it isn't entirely clear why this should be the case since the discharge current is varying in the same manner for both cases). With the addition of some filtering and a regulator and/or ballast resistor, the optimal current could be maintained continuously boosting efficiency and power output. However, a starter like a high power version of that used for modern HeNe laser tubes may be required. See the HeNe power supply information in the sections beginning with: Starters - Voltage Multiplier, Pulse, Inverter, Piezo.
      Many variations are possible to this basic design beyond improving the power supply including changes to the resonator diameter and length; the addition and/or substitution of other gasses, ratios, and pressures; and better optics. With the relatively non-critical vacuum requirements ease of mirror alignment, making these sorts of modifications should be fairly painless.

      Iannini CO2 Laser Description

      The summary below is for the CO2 laser project from "Build your own working Fiberoptic, Infrared, and Laser Space-Age Projects" by Robert E. Iannini. See the section: CO2 Laser Construction References and Links.

      Although generally similar to the CO2 laser from "Light and its Uses" (see the section: Home-Built CO2 Laser Description, it is more than twice as long and should therefore be capable of much higher power operation. Some glass working is specified (though this could easily be avoided with minimal design changes) and the power supply has more frills (but is only AC instead of DC and therefore will not be as efficient).

      • Level of difficulty (rated L=low, M=medium, H=high):

        • Glass work - M.
        • Fabrication - M.
        • Vacuum/gas handling. - L.
        • Power supply. - M.
        • Additional apparatus (HeNe laser for alignment, etc.) - L.
        • Risks (high voltage, toxic chemicals, etc.) - M

      • Resonator:

        • Type/lasing medium - Low pressure mixture of CO2, N2, and He.

        • Bore diameter - 5/8 inch ID, bore length - 27 inches.

        • Total tube length - 30 inches.

        • Tube material - borosilicate (Pyrex) glass.

        • Electrodes - Cold cathode type (rated 200 mA sealed in Pyrex) fused into side-arms.

        • Gas fill - CO2 laser mix: 9.5% CO2, 13.5% N2, and 77% He (Linde Gas).

        • Cooling - PVC water jacket (30 inches long by 3 inch diameter with flowing tap water.

        • Coupling - Integral to tube via metal bellows and 3 screw adjustments.

        • Mirrors - HR: Silicon, 99.5% reflecting, concave, f = 10 meters; OC: Zinc selenide (ZnSe), 80% reflecting, planar. (The parts list also calls for a GaAs focusing lens, meniscus, f = 125 mm.) All optics are 25 mm diameter.

        • Total resonator length (mirror to mirror) - Approximately 34 inches.

      • Vacuum system:

        • Requirements - Medium. Must be capable of achieving 1 Torr or less such as Sargent Welch #1400 two stage or #1399 single stage rotary maechanical pump.

        • Flowing - The gas mixture and flow rate can be adjusted to optimize performance.

      • Special chemicals/supplies required (other than gasses) - none.

      • Excitation/Pumping:

        • Type (electrical/optical) - AC electrical discharge.

        • Power supply - 12,000 VRMS, 60 mA neon sign transformer and Variac. The remainder of the power supply is not essential functionally but is needed to meet safety requirements (after a fashion, at least).

      Update on Chris's CO2 Laser

      (From: Chris Chagaris (pyro@grolen.com)).

      My original CO2 laser and power supply is pretty much along the lines as the Scientific American as described in the section: Home-Built CO2 Laser Description

      I have recently built a smaller and more compact power supply for it. This consists of a 9,000 volt, 30 mA neon sign transformer, manufactured by the Canadian firm of Allanson, as the basic unit. This is the type of transformer with the two high voltage terminals coming directly out the top of the tar insulation, all enclosed in a somewhat larger metal case. This case left plenty of room for a bridge rectifier, key switch, fuse, 'on' light, milliameter and a 3 amp Variac. A six foot 3-wire appliance cord with IEC input module and two 20 inch high voltage output leads, with color-coded alligator clips complete the package.

      This power supply seems to perform as well as the 15,000 volt @ 60 mA unit that I had employed in the past with this modest sized laser. I no longer have a supply of commercial CO2 laser gas and have been using the 'three separate gas' system for some time now with good success. I have been using a commercial cylinder of compressed helium (useful for most other lasers also), nitrogen from the air (bubbled through water) and sublimating dry ice for the CO2 supply. I had bought a small supply of dry ice on Friday which lasted only until Saturday evening, due to its tendency to mysteriously disappear even when stored in an insulated cooler. Out of sheer curiosity today I decided to try a much more readily available source of carbon dioxide gas to operate this laser with. Searching through the cupboards I found some white vinegar and a small box of baking soda. Lo and behold, a small amount of this mixture in a flask produced a fine source of CO2. I was pleasantly surprised to open the needle valve from this flask to the laser and see a fine burn pattern appear on my thermal FAX paper target. No more dry ice! I just thought you may wish to pass this on to the amateur laser community. This really simplifies the gas problem for small CO2 lasers.

      I am not sure of the power output I am getting with this system, but it will easily ignite the FAX paper in a matter of five to ten seconds without any focusing optics. The burn pattern is quite large also with this wide bore (1 inch) plasma tube. I have read about your plan for measuring CO2 output power by heating a measured quantity of water for ten minutes. I have yet to try this yet, basically for lack of a suitable reflector to steer this beam into a container. I have a simple thermometer with a flat black penny attached to the stem to see temperature rise from the beam impinging upon said target. This allows some comparison of output power, but is there anyway to translate this to watts? I am getting about a one and one half degree centigrade rise in temperature per second at full power.

      (From: Sam).

      Yes, by knowing the mass of the penny (about 5 grams I think) and the rate of initial rise in temperature, you should be able to calculate the approximate beam power. What you need is temperature rise/Joule (or calorie) of energy for a standard penny. :-) I say 'initial' since losses due to convection and radiation of the heat energy will be small. This is still going to be tricky without a serious effort to insulate the 'sensor'.

      Estimating Home-Built CO2 Laser Output Power

      Rather than guessing as I have done for the previous lasers, here I suggest a low cost way of testing it!

      Since water is a good absorber of 10.6 um radiation, a simple 'water heating test' like that used to evaluate the performance of a microwave oven should be able to determine the actual power in the laser beam to a fair degree of accuracy. To do this, provide a way of directing the beam from your CO2 laser downward - a polished copper plate used a mirror, for example. Place 100 ml of water in a small thermos (dewer) and measure its temperature. Run the CO2 laser beam into the water for 10 minutes. Then, the power in the beam is given by: P(beam) = Temperature rise in DegC multiplied by .7. I do not know to what extent the reflectivity of the water will affect these readings but the experiment is easy enough!

      Discussion of CO2 Laser Construction

      (From: Kristian Tapani Ukkonen (kukkonen@epsilon.hut.fi)).

      I'm considering a project of building a small CO2-laser. I have a fully reflective mirror (germanium with gold coating) and output-coupler (transparent material with gold coating) from a 500 W laser. These mirrors are old but usable according to the person who kindly gave them to me from a company doing laser-cutting.

      (From: A. E. Siegman (siegman@ee.stanford.edu)).

      The output coupler is possibly zinc selenide (expensive); coating probably is *not* gold, but a gold-colored dielectric coating.

      If mirrors are salt (NaCL) (they'll be quite light in weight) keep 'em dry!

      (From: Kristian Tapani Ukkonen (kukkonen@epsilon.hut.fi)).

      I have plans for a CO2-laser (from "Light and its Uses" but several questions do arise: The article does not really comment the ratio of discharge tube length to the diameter and how to correlate this to optimal performance and pressure and ratio of gasses. They do mention about 18" long and 1" diameter tube with 1-20 torr and 8 parts He, 2 N2 and 1 CO2 while with narrower tube higher pressures apply. Their efficiency is rather low (about 1%) while I've read even 30% can be achieved. Why would this be - does errors with pressures and tube dimensions cause this? They do use 12 kV 0 to 100 mA to drive the tube with <10 W output.

      (From: A. E. Siegman (siegman@ee.stanford.edu)).

      CO2 insensitive to tube diameter; gain goes up linearly with length. 1" diameter is largish; 1 cm more common; 18" length is quite short; 60 cm to 1 m might be more like it.

      Power output per unit length is almost independent of tube diameter (larger tube has more gas, but gas gets hotter because of longer diffusion length to walls, and so you don't get more power).

      Optimum pressure, mixture and discharge conditions probably best determined by trial and error. There are probably known recipes for optimum conditions, but still, trial and error is the easiest way to go.

      (From: Kristian Tapani Ukkonen (kukkonen@epsilon.hut.fi)).

      Sputtering to mirrors. The article has the mirrors directly mounted to the ends with bellows of brass as means to align them. I'd guess that the mirrors get destroyed by sputtering at least at one end?? In order to prevent this I've thought about using bi-sectional tube with middle grounded and either +V or -V at both ends. Would this help? What is it that really is the threat - ionized electrode material? I've planned using stainless-steel. I'd rather than mount mirrors to direct contact to plasma do use some windows at ends and mirrors at some distance away - does this sound reasonable or will I face problems - if not what would be a good material for the windows and do they have to be at brewster angle - I've seen some designs of high-gain lasers that do not use angled windows.

      (From: A. E. Siegman (siegman@ee.stanford.edu)).

      Be careful!!!! Bellows could be hot electrically, and even if you think bellows are grounded, discharge could jump to mirrors.

      I shouldn't give advice on this, because I really don't know, but I have the impression the CO2 laser discharge is a fairly 'soft' glow discharge, and doesn't do a lot of sputtering or damage to mirrors.

      CO2 gain fairly low; if not intracavity mirrors, then Brewster windows essential. Large salt flats possible, but fragile; big ZnSe slabs best but pricey, and angle is very steep.

      (From: Kristian Tapani Ukkonen (kukkonen@epsilon.hut.fi)).

      I do use a 220 VAC:20 KV 7KW externally current-limited transformer for this project. I can control both voltage and current with Variac and adjustable inductance -> 0 to 20 kV 0 to 350 mA

      (From: Sam).

      That sort of power supply is gross overkill for a small CO2 laser and very dangerous. I would recommend using a luminous tube transformer as suggested in the article - still very dangerous but not quite as instantly deadly.

      (From: Kristian Tapani Ukkonen (kukkonen@epsilon.hut.fi)).

      Laser cavity shall be constructed using pyrex-tube with stainless-steel ends (electrode/window-holder/adjuster) and plastic water-jacket around the glass tube. Vacuum is maintained with mechanical 2-stage pump.

      I can put a focusing lens after completing the laser.

      
                             Water
                        _      In           Water Jacket        _
               Mirror  | |_____||____________________v_________| |  Mirror
                 ||    | |________________.__._________________| |    ||
                 ||     I ________________|__|_________________ I     ||
                 ||    | |_________________||___________  _____| |    ||
                       |_|                 ||           ||     |_|
                    Electrode          Ground and     Water Electrode
                                       Vacuum Pump     Out
      
      
      The gas-feed is at the end-electrodes, vacuum-pump connected to middle.

      (From: A. E. Siegman (siegman@ee.stanford.edu)).

      In chemical glassware catalogs you can find water cooled straight distillation columns in meter lengths. These make a good cheap water-cooled CO2 laser tube.

      (From: Kristian Tapani Ukkonen (kukkonen@epsilon.hut.fi)).

      Any other comments welcome.

      Just to limit the amount of safety concerns: I have experience about high voltages (even Tesla-coils) and shall use adequate protection to IR protective goggles and IR camera to view beam-lines. I'm no mad scientist but an amateur with real need to a cutting laser.

      CO2 Laser on a Budget?

      For those of us who are experienced scroungers and improvizors, the estimates given below are probably way excessive. However, where this is not the case, expect to spend a few bucks. Of course, that estimate of $100 might have been in 1971 dollars!

      The problem is that there are such a wide variation in what it will cost to obtain things like vacuum pumps that it is hard to put prices on a completed laser. Depending on your resourcefulness, scavenger ability, and luck, it could be less than $100 but it could also be a lot more. But, if you haven't anything set up now, there will be serious additional overhead. An adequate vacuum pump could easily blow the budget right there.

      "I would like to construct a cheap CO2 Laser that doesn't require special components and glass blowing skills."

      (From: Joe or JoEllen (joenjo@pacbell.net)).

      Yes it possible to build a medium to high power laser with a limited budget but even the best scrounge would have a tough time doing it for $100! I started building a multi-watt CO2 laser years ago but had a hard time maintaining mirror alignment during pump-down (the corner-cutting design is to use the end mirrors to seal the resonator in lieu of ZnSe brewster windows used in the commercial versions.

      The design I used was a hybrid of the Iannini version [3] and that from: "Light and it's Uses".

      BTW, I also started building the argon laser featured in the same book.

      (From: Dave (dave-a@li.net)).

      I work for a CO2 laser manufacturer (name withheld) and it depends on what you want to cut with it.

      You'll need laser gas mix (on the cheap side), three flow meters (expensive), and then either nitrogen or oxygen to cut depending what you are cutting, polarizing mirrors, output mirrors, etc, etc. Its going to be expensive anyway you look at it. What are you trying to cut? And how much wattage?

      (From: Christopher R. Carlen (crobc@epix.net)).

      On first note, if you are not experienced with electronics, you should know that a CO2 laser power supply is VERY DANGEROUS. The high voltage and high current involved can quickly kill you. There will be absolutely no room for error. Get acquainted with basic electronics, and then electrical safety skills before setting out to build a laser power supply.

      My plans for building a CO2 are not really plans, but rather practical engineering formulas that come from a declassified old CO2 laser manual from the U.S. Air Force's early experiments with CO2 and CO laser technology for Star Wars applications.

      My purpose for building the thing is, well quite simply, my professor told me to do it. He wants a CO2 on a long rail which will allow the cavity length to be adjusted over a large range to demonstrate laser concepts to optics students. Plus, it should be a whole lot of fun, and a good experience for me.

      If you want to cut stuff, I would recommend a commercial CO2 or Nd:YAG laser, from the surplus market, like from MWK Industries. Currently you can get something in the $1500 to $5000 range that will do the job, and you will avoid a great deal of time invested in building your own which might turn out to be disappointing, or worse, deadly if you aren't sure what you're doing.

      With respect to the cost of components alone needed to build your own CO2 laser, you must consider:

      1. A heavy rail and precision optic mounts, maybe $300.

      2. High reflector and output coupler optics, maybe $200.

      3. Tube components, maybe $100 if you're clever enough.

      4. Power supply components, maybe $200.

      5. High vacuum pump, maybe $200 to $500 if you get a working used pump.

      6. Low pressure gauge, gas manifold and valve components, plumbing, and tank regulators, maybe $300 if you're determined enough to hunt at length for bargains.

      7. CO2, N2, and He tanks, maybe $100 to $200 to rent the tanks with fresh fill, but then you'll have to pay each month's rent on the tanks.
      I estimate about $1500 at a minimum.

      Well I would be highly surprised if anyone could really build a CO2 for $100 as mentioned at Information Unlimited. You must understand that they are a dealer in some good information, and much highly suspect information.

      (From: Dave (dave-a@li.net).

      Damn that's cheap! The CO2 (4.5 or 4.8) usually goes for a lot more then that! Better the gas, the longer your optics will last. The N2 and He are the cheap ones (compared to CO2). I just went through this with a customer. He bought 4.0 CO2 and there was a *major* jump in price to scientific grade (4.8 I think it was. 99.998%) The 99.99 wasn't good enough. Though he should get away with premix (Mazack I now uses/used premix).

      But you're right, buy a surplus 'head' its cheaper. Plus you now have a working unit that you can modify to tweak up the power :).



    12. Back to Home-Built Lasers Sub-Table of Contents.

      Home-Built Nitrogen (N2) Laser

      Introduction to Home-Built N2 Laser

      The nitrogen (N2) laser produces intense extremely short (a few ns) pulses of light in the near UV portion of the E/M spectrum. Despite this impressive capability, the N2 laser is among the easiest to construct for the following reasons:
      • NO glass working is required. The laser cavity is a Plexiglass box!

      • It runs at a relatively high pressure (low vacuum) - typically 100 to 200 Torr and some can be made to even work at full atmospheric pressure.

      • Mirrors are NOT required. The gain of the lasing medium (N2) is so high that one pass through the discharge chamber is sufficient to produce an intense coherent UV pulse. A totally reflecting mirror of almost any type as long as it reflects UV can be added at the far end of the chamber to double output if desired. In fact, a true resonator with a pair of mirrors would not help as the laser process is self limiting - in 10 ns or so!

      • The basic pulse power supply is very simple and not terribly dangerous (in a relative sort of way compared to most other home-built lasers). A higher performance power supply is an option to boost average power but is not required.

      • The gas fill can be just plain old nitrogen and the purity grade available from welding suppliers is more than adequate.
      Compared to all the others, the nitrogen laser is probably the easiest to construct with the lowest risks. No glass working, no mirrors or mirror alignment, minimal vacuum. Despite this, what you end up with isn't substantially inferior to a commercial unit costing many kilobucks. It just lacks the convenience features and other bells and whistles. Now, the UV output isn't in a tight high quality beam but it is a real laser.

      N2 Laser Construction References and Links

      In addition to the article in: "Light and its Uses", there are some Web links of interest:

      Some Photos of Home-Built N2 Lasers

      (From: Chris Chagaris (pyro@grolen.com)). (From: Thieu Asselbergs (asselber@fys.ruu.nl)).

      Home-Built N2 Laser Description

      Many variations are possible and easy to try since very little is really critical.

      Refer to Typical Home-Built Nitrogen Laser Assembly for a simplified diagram of the overall structure and low voltage operated inverter type power supply electronics.

      • Level of difficulty (rated L=low, M=medium, H=high):

        • Glass work - none required.
        • Fabrication (other than glass work) - L.
        • Vacuum/gas handling - L.
        • Additional apparatus - none.
        • Power supply - L.
        • Risks (high voltage, toxic chemicals, etc.) - M.

      • Resonator:

        • Type/lasing medium - Low pressure nitrogen gas.

        • Bore diameter - 5 cm x 5 cm (2 inch x 2 inch) box; bore length - 30 cm (1 foot).

        • Total tube length - same.

        • Tube material - Plexiglass.

        • Electrodes - Copper foil, 1 cm gap lengthwise along entire tube.

        • Gas fill - nitrogen (welder's quality recommended) at about 100 Torr.

        • Cooling - Convection air.

        • Coupling - Glass microscope slides at 20 to 30 degree angle (not Brewster windows) to minimize reflections back into the laser cavity.

        • Mirrors - None required! However, a single mirror can be installed at one end as the HR to double output.

        • Total resonator length - NA.

      • Vacuum system:

        • Requirements - low. A salvaged refrigeration compressor or lab aspirator should be fine.

        • Sealed while operating.

      • Special chemicals/supplies required - none.

      • Excitation/Pumping:

        • Type - Blumlein high current electrical discharge.

        • Power supply - 20,000 VDC, low current. A transistor inverter and voltage multiplier or a neon sign transformer based supply can be used.

        The Blumlein circuit is approximately equivalent to the following:

        
                          R1                L1
                  - o----/\/\------+-------CCCCC-------+--------+
                                   |                   |        |
                                   +--------> <--------+        |
                 20 KVDC       C1 _|_      Laser      _|_ C2    v SG1
                                  ---     Cavity      ---       ^ Spark Gap
                                   |                   |        |
                  + o--------------+-------------------+--------+
        
        
        The HV power supply charges both capacitors to nearly 20 KV. When the spark gap breaks down, C2 is shorted out and the full voltage on C1 appears across the gap along the length of the laser cavity instantly causing the nitrogen gas to ionize. (Actually, the voltage pulse hits the center of the cavity first and spreads to the ends in a couple of nanoseconds!) R1 simply isolates and limits current from the HV power supply - its value is irrelevant when the spark gap triggers!

        Note: The drawings in "Light and its Uses" are at the very least confusing and may be wrong in some aspects of the description of operation of the Blumlein effect.

      Construction of the Capacitors for the N2 Laser Blumlein Pulse Circuit

      The capacitors are formed between the top and bottom copper foil on 30 x 45 x .04 cm (12" x 18" x .015") Fiberglass-Epoxy printed circuit board material. The top and bottom are etched for 2 cm around the edges and a 5 cm strip down the middle on top is removed to separate the plates for the two capacitors.

      You won't find the PCB material at Radio Shack but it should be available at reasonable cost from surplus electronics dealers or PCB fabrication houses. However, tracking down one in your neighborhood may take some finger or leg work. Here are a couple of sources found in the Portland, OR, area, for example:

      (From: Scott & Pat Chewning (patch@europa.com)).

      • Cascade Electronic Surplus, Portland, OR, 1-503-285-0832. Open Thursday to Saturday! They will cut to your needs, up to 6' x 45' (that's feet!), all .015" thick and have almost any other size.

      • R5-D3, Portland, OR, 1-503-774-6560. Open Wednesday to Saturday. Good if you want anything hard to find, especially vacuum tubes. He has 3' x 4' sheets for $10.
      Once you have obtained the PCB material, it needs to be cut to size. This can be done with a band saw and fine tooth blade, a power shear, hack saw, nibbling tool, or even a pair of metal snips or paper cutter! (Though the fiberglass is hard on blades, cutting a couple sheets of this stuff shouldn't affect anything.) Then, the copper needs to be removed from selected areas to form the plates of the two capacitors of the Blumlein circuit:
      • The best way to remove the unwanted copper is probably with PCB etching solution (cupric chloride and hydrochloric acid, ferric chloride, or dilute nitric acid). Areas to be preserved are masked off with plastic tape, PCB resist, or another material impervious to the etching solution. Radio Shack is supposed to have a kit for about $14 which comes with resist ink, resist solvent, and ferric chloride etching solution. Other large electronics distributors will have similar kits as well (and probably cheaper) All you really need is the etching solution and some sort of masking material or resist - these may be available as refill items.

        WARNING: Handle and dispose of used etching chemicals responsibly - depending on type, they may stain or eat pipes (copper drain lines!!!), masonry and other building and landscaping materials, as well as human flesh. Read and follow all package instructions.

      • With care, it may be possible to do this mechanically without the use of messy chemicals. However, it is absolutely critical to avoid damage to the underlying Fiberglass Epoxy or else there will be areas of reduced dielectric strength and it will arc through the first time HV is applied. The chemical etch approach above is inherently harmless to the board material itself.

        For the Blumlein capacitors as specified for the N2 laser, proceed as follows: Taking care not to penetrate the copper, use a sharpened nail or awl to scribe lines on the *surface* 2 cm from all 4 edges top and bottom, and another pair of lines front to back across the board 5 cm apart on the top only for the gap between the two plates. Then, use an Xacto knife or razor blade to lift the copper from the from the board at a corner or edge. The copper can be peeled from the board to back to these lines and then flexed back and forth to break the copper. I don't know what, if any, latent surface damage may result from this approach. Therefore, the chemical etch is preferred if you can stand the mess!

      Note that the approximate puncture voltage for this material is 1 KV/mil (.001 inch or .025 mm). Therefore, the .04 cm specified in "Light and its Uses" is good for about 16 KV which is probably a bit marginal. Going to 20 KV will probably not cause problems but I wouldn't recommend pushing your luck much beyond this. Other materials like Plexiglass can be used but there will always be tradeoffs:

      The puncture voltage for acrylic plastic (Plexiglass) varies between 450 and 990 volts per mil (.001") depending upon the quality of the product. Common 1/8" (.3 cm) thick sheet (assuming the lower value for puncture voltage) should be able to withstand over 55,000 volts; 1/16" sheet (.015 cm) will handle over 25 KV which is still adequate. The problem that you will encounter is the low capacitance obtained with the same surface area of even the thinner Plexiglass material (compared to the .015" (.04 cm) Fiberglass-Epoxy (though as noted above, that thickness may not be quite enough to withstand 20 KV). The dielectric constant for Plexiglass is also lower and with the increased thickness results in much less total capacitance. Stacking additional layers may not be a viable option due to the nanosecond timing requirements!

      What about using discrete capacitors? You are, of course, welcome to experiment. However, I might suggest that starting with something that is known to work would be prudent even if it takes a little longer to find the proper materials. Homemade capacitors made from 10 or 100 or whatever of 1 or 2 KV units in series-parallel is asking for trouble especially in a rapid discharge circuit like this. The inductance of the leads alone will probably greatly slow the rate of discharge. Any inequality in capacitance and even how they are connected will result in voltage differences across the capacitors so they may fail immediately if not sooner. Even commercial high voltage capacitors may be inadequate. And, distributing enough of either type of discrete capacitor in just the right locations to simulate the discharge wave of the Blumlein device could prove quite a challenge in its own right! >

      So Why Didn't Ben Franklin Build One of These?

      The Blumlein-switched capacitor UV lasers use some pretty basic technology, readily available over two hundred years ago. Too bad the concept of the laser, let alone a working model, wasn't even a glimmer in anyone's eyes at that time! The following is extracted from a discussion on alt.lasers.

      "The N2 laser doesn't require sophisticated construction, so this bit about Ben Franklin seems reasonable. You just need a very fast voltage pulse to pump a nitrogen atmosphere to get some kind of laser output. The Blumlein circuit is the switch recommended by the Scientific American Amateur Scientist article on the N2 laser that appears in "Light and It's Uses.""

      (Responses from: placayo@hotmail.com) unless otherwise noted).

      I had it in the back of my head that input amperage also mattered somehow. In this case, milliamperes as generated by the usual laser power sources Van de Graafs and Wimshurst machines put out mere microamps. On the other hand, the nanosecond switching in Blumlein's pulsar (such as in the Scientific American column) guarantees an avalanche of current at high voltage in the laser channel. So, input current is not really critical.

      "I'm sure that Mr. Franklin could have devised something similar, had he realized a need for it. He had access to electrostatic generators and Layden jars, which were early capacitors. It is conceivable that someone could take all these parts, along with the newly-discovered atmospheric gases (1772 for nitrogen) and vacuum pumps, and produce a nitrogen laser for the Continental Congress (1774 - 1789)."

      Or he could have gone the simpler route and used air as the lasing medium. I understand that air lases (even at normal pressure) when used in a traveling wave laser. It's a more likely scenario. They were tireless and thorough experimenters back then to a degree we rarely find today. Some busy-body, Old Ben perhaps, may have slapped together something resembling the Blumlein switch, just to see what happens, fired it up, watched a curious fluorescence in the long notch on one Leyden jar plate or capacitor plate, packed up and went home. He wouldn't have an idea that he had just invented a laser because the output is UV and invisible.

      There'd be no record of it consequently. And history slips through his fingers. If the would-be inventor had been Ben Franklin, the device would look exactly as it does today. At one point, Franklin preferred flat-plate capacitors in his work. He popularized them. They called them "Franklin squares", I think.

      The traveling wave laser is one example of a technology that was sought for because it was predicted by established theory. But because of its simple construction, it could just as easily be the sort of thing that might have been invented by accident way before -- and ignored.

      "This business of Ben Franklin's nitrogen laser makes me wonder what inventions we could make with just the technology we have today? It reminds me of Babbage's calculating machine, which also would have brought technological usefulness to people centuries sooner."

      Or what old, "obsolete" inventions or long-discarded ideas might be resurrected with the benefit of today's know-how and materials.

      (From: Sam).

      Of course, in Ben's time, there was no way to realize that laser action was taking place or that such a thing was different than ordinary light anyhow, no obvious way to see UV, or reason to even check for it.

      For one to claim that an invention was created they either have to have sought it out before hand or understood the ramifications of the results of a fortuitous experiment. Neither of these were really possible for another couple of centuries. :-)

      Power Supply Requirements for the N2 Laser

      The laser discharge circuit in the Nitrogen laser article in "Light and its Uses" is just a homemade capacitor, inductor, and air spark gap - fired by when the voltage climbs high enough.

      Charging current is irrelevant except to the extent that it affects the repetition rate and to overcome electrical leakage in the setup (which can be quite minimal).

      In fact, in the article, they suggest alternatives - their little transistor ignition coil thing and a neon sign transformer. It just affects the repetition rate. The transistor circuit probably puts out order of 10 uA at 20 KV (they say 1 percent efficiency!). A neon sign setup, perhaps 2000 times this. When the spark gap fires, the current available from the charging source is of no consequence.

      It would be interesting to connect a Van De Graff or Wimhurst machine to such a setup.

      (From: Chris Chagaris (pyro@grolen.com)).

      Well yes, I have fired my nitrogen laser by using my Wimshurst machine as the charging source. I just tried this on a whim, and it worked. It does take a little while to get the capacitors charged to firing potential though. It is a nifty combination of the old and the new.

      Comments on N2 Laser Construction

      (From: (fannin@gte.net)).

      I followed the development of nitrogen lasers from their beginning. You will find most of the articles in Journal of Physics E Scientific Instruments in about 1968 to 1975 but that was a long time ago. The dates are ballpark. Nitrogen lasers can be used at atmospheric pressure with a helium nitrogen mix. Sulfur hexaflouride changes the near ultraviolet lifetime. The length is limited to about three feet in some designs with power output in the MEGAWATTS. They can be more than a glorified flashtube. The voltages, RF, flash, in short nearly everything about some of the designs can be deadly or permanently maim you. The cavity and capacitor are simple but must be used with the utmost caution. Study in depth first - then build!!!!!!

      (From: Jon St Clair (Jon_St_Clair-QJS006@email.mot.com)).

      I had a friend that made one of these once, but I never saw it operate.

      It was a remarkably simple device and consisted of two sheets of metal separated by a dielectric like a sheet of Plexiglas. The lower sheet, viewed from the end, was shaped like the letter "J" laying on its back. The upper sheet was positioned so that a spark gap formed between the hook of the J and one edge of the upper plate.

      The spark gap was covered on top with plastic so that nitrogen could flow along the spark gap. The spark gap was slightly more narrow on one end than the other.

      When a DC high voltage charged up what was essentially a parallel plate capacitor, a nitrogen arc forms at one end of the spark gap. At least one photon of UV causes ionization of the nitrogen right next to it line with the spark gap and results in a spreading out of the discharge along the length of the spark gap.

      The spark starts at one end of the gap, propagates at the speed of light along the gap adding energy to a coherent packet of photons as they travel along the gap. I am not clear on this, but I think that the pulse width of the laser may be equal to the length of the spark gap divided by the speed of light. This is a very very short period of time, and if the conversion efficiency of the energy stored in the parallel plate into coherent UV is some reasonable amount(?) then the peak power could be huge. x-Watts/second divided by a very small number of seconds!

      I think obtaining a source of nitrogen and finding a optically clear (at the UV wavelength) and distortion free lens for one end of the spark gap was the only hard stuff other than building a high voltage DC power supply (and that is not hard).

      When you hook up a continuous DC supply, you get a burst, it charges up again, bursts, charge up again etc. I understand it will really light up UV dyes some distance away.

      (From: Dr. Peter Schellenberg (peter.schellenberg@physik.uni-ulm.de)).

      Among the lasers described in "Light and its Uses" and other Amateur Scientist articles, I guess the nitrogen laser is the cheapest one, since you do not even need mirrors, and can go around with some handmade stuff and school equipment. The electrical discharge is done by a home-made capacitor in a so-called Blumlein arrangement. (Something similar can also be done to build a CO2 laser. However, in this case you need mirrors, preferentially gold mirrors. Don't be shocked, these are not that expensive).

      By using a cylindrical lens, you can focus the beam from the N2 laser in a cuvette with almost any dye and get superradiant laser emission from it.

      There are also a lot of descriptions for laser construction in the following scientific journals:

      • IEEE Journal of quantum electronics
      • Optics communications
      • Optics letters
      However, there is never a part list included, for this you have to use your brain!

      I prefer older articles, lets say between 1965 and 1980, some of the lasers at that time were not as complicated (and expensive!) as later designs.

      Note that there are only few lasers that can really build with less than a few 100$.

      (From: Richard Alexander (RAlexan290@gnn.com)).

      Building a good nitrogen laser is almost trivial, and low-cost. All you have to do is send a 100 KV arc across a spark gap in a moderately low pressure (100 torr, a little more than 1/10th atmosphere) nitrogen environment. The output is crude, but $15,000 nitrogen lasers don't make a much better beam than a $200 device (the difference between the two appears to be versatility and electrical noise suppression).

      (From: Chris Chagaris (pyro@grolen.com)).

      I have just re-built my N2 laser and have substituted a PVC pipe in place of the plexiglass box. This withstands the vacuum much better than the box design. The box would contract whenever the vacuum was applied and was prone to leaks. I have recently obtained a cylinder of compressed nitrogen gas (for free!) to use in this laser. With the leak-proof construction and the pure N2 gas, the output of this laser has increased dramatically. I have no way of measuring the output power, but when the beam strikes a fluorescent piece of paper, it is so bright that it is somewhat uncomfortable to look at. UV protective eye ware is worn at all times, but these are clear to visible light.

      I am in the process of building a small dye head to be pumped by the output of this N2 laser. I have heard that many of the dyes will 'lase' superradiantly when pumped by such a source. As these dye heads are of simple construction, I will build some with resonant optics and some without. This should be a very interesting area of experimentation.

      (From: Frank Roberts (Frank_Roberts@klru.pbs.org)).

      The supply needed to excite a nitrogen laser is basically a capacitive-discharge DC supply. The high voltage AC from the transformer is diode-rectified to DC and then applied across a suitably rated capacitor. Since a 15 kv neon sign transformer is rated at 15 kv RMS (average), the actual peak voltage from the transformer is greater than that by a factor of the square root of two (1.414). This means that a 15kv transformer will charge the capacitor up to 15 KV x 1.414, or over 21 KV. This is plenty of oomph for a Nitrogen laser. Be careful, this voltage applied across a capacitor is deadly! If you need more voltage, two diodes and two capacitors can be connected in the form of a voltage doubler. Your 15kv transformer will now provide 42.42 kilovolts of pump energy. You'll find that these voltages, capacitors and diodes can become expensive. One way around this is to connect your neon transformer to a relatively inexpensive voltage tripler. These are used in some color TV sets to get the 30 to 45 KV needed for the picture tube. These are potted modules containing all the capacitors and diodes in one unit. You can salvage them from broken TVs or buy them new at any electronics parts house.

      Increasing the Peak Power of the N2 Laser

      (From: Steve Roberts (osteven@akrobiz.com)).

      Boosting the high voltage or capacitor size isn't the way to go. Increase the length of the laser tube itself to a meter or so and then move the Blumlein spark gap to one corner to introduce a traveling wave so the gain follows the coherent light down the tube.

      Troubleshooting a Home-Built N2 Laser

      (Desperate for answers: Tammo van Lessen (tvanlessen@gmx.de)).

      (Replies from: Roland A. Smith (see.www.lsr.ph.ic.ac.uk@web.pages)).

      "My N2 laser doesn't work and I don't know why?? Help!!!

      I've a big problem. I have to build a Nitrogen-Laser for school. I got a scheme to build something like that in the Scientific American. It's based on the Blumlein-effect.

      
        +7kV              ______ooooo______
               ___________|____>  L  <____|__________________ Spark gap
                xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx '
        -----------------------------------------------------+-------------
         0V
      
      
      xxx is Epoxy-circuit-board --- is copper > L < is laser chamber ooooo is inductor

      Sorry for that terrible scheme! :)

      Ok, but now the PROBLEM!!

      If i'm firing up the system, it doesn't want to create any kinds of laser radiation. I'm despairing!! PLEASE HELP!!"

      I have built a few of these in my time (and have run this project for first year undergrad students), and there are some critical points to watch out for. First off, SAFETY, these things can kill you if you get a good solid shock from them, so take care and follow all the usual high voltage handling guidelines. If you or your supervisor haven't done HV work before, then I strongly suggest you get someone who has to look over your working practices etc. Make very sure the PCB capacitor and power supply are properly discharged before you go near it. Remember that 7 KV can jump a fair way across surfaces to fingers etc.

      Ok, with that bit out of the way, you need to check the following points.

      1. Does the spark gap break down? If not, then decrease the gap spacing until it does (Do this in 1 mm stages, with HV turned OFF in between). Note that the spark emits lots of UV and should be enclosed in a plastic shield of some kind.

      2. When the gap breaks down, do you see a discharge across the laser channel? It should be a fairly uniform pink/purple color. If you see isolated sparks instead the nitrogen pressure is too high. If you see a faint glow, with white hot spots then pressure may be too low. You need about 1/5th atmospheric pressure.

      3. N2 from a gas cylinder is MUCH better than air. Flowing N2 at the right pressure works best. Good control of the N2 pressure is CRITICAL for getting this thing to work. Oxygen free nitrogen (OFN) the very cheapest commercial grade is fine and only a few $ per bottle. You do however need some gas handling valves etc.

      4. How are you looking for the laser output? It's in the UV and the best way is to look for a blue/purple fluorescence from a piece of photocopying paper or some such. You won't get a very good beam from the laser, as there are no resonator mirrors. Its a horrible rectangular blob with very bad divergence.

      5. What windows are you using? Quartz is better than ordinary glass as it has higher UV transmission.
      Have fun and take care!

      Nitrogen Laser Humor and Other Tid-Bits

      For some inexplicable reason, the N2 laser seems to attract more humorous discussion than other types. Here are a few examples. :-)

      Just What You Always Wanted!

      The following 'for sale' ad appeared on the 'alt.lasers' newsgroup. Of course, we now know that these specifications are nothing to write home about!

      (From: (gary@astro.as.utexas.edu)).

      Subject: 1 MW N2 laser for sale $1 per pound.
      Date: 08/25/97

      I have this mondo 1 Mw peak N2 laser that weighs in at 1200 pounds. It is in plug-and-play condition complete with documentation. All you need is a source of nitrogen. I have a dewer and bought some LN2 and used the boil off to run the laser. Most impressive!! It made everything that was even remotely fluorescent in my garage glow intensely. I had planned to use it to pump some fluorescent plastic for a down converter to coherent visible light but I have lost momentum and want my garage back.

      I want to sell the laser for $1,200. I can supply copies of the manual and photographs to anyone that is interested. It has a rather small vacuum pump that will allow 5-10 Hz rep rate but it can sustain a much higher repetition rate with a larger vacuum pump. The laser was manufactured my Molectron and is a model UV1000.

      Nitrogen Laser Construction on a Shoestring

      Check out: Build Your Own Nitrogen Laser - A DIY Home Guide for a few laughs. This approach might almost sort of possibly on a good day actually work after a fashion assuming you didn't kill yourself or burn down the house first. :-) There are just a few missing details but (with a bit of interpolation) the result would not be all much different (in spirit, at least) than the basic structure of the typical home-built nitrogen laser we have been discussing. Compare this description with any of the photos shown in the section: Some Photos of Home-Built N2 Lasers.

      There are some other chuckles along the same lines awaiting you as links from its parent page as well.

      The Ultimate Nitrogen Laser

      This one should be taken with even more of a grain of salt (or laser crystal fragment) than the utility drawer N2 laser described above. Also note that, high temperature band saw material notwithstanding, you only get one shot from a given set of apparatus so this should be figured into your budget. :-) Also keep in mind that your Manager may not be convinced of the chances of getting this to work from Mother Nature (without the benefit of prior testing, quality assurance, and all required paperwork and departmental design reviews). Therefore, you should make sure to address these concerns in your project proposal and multimedia presentation as well.

      Serious note (sort of): Aside from the obvious danger involved in obtaining the needed power supply, this is not likely to work in any case. Due to the self limiting behavior of the nitrogen laser emission characteristics, the electrical discharge would need to be precisely timed to travel along the laser tube at roughly the speed of light as in the normal Blumlein power supply rather than simply blowing a modest size crater in a one location. The required Lightning Bolt Control board (RISC microprocessor based, of course) would be one of the many major challenges of this design.

      (Portions from: Brian (LOGICWIZ@prodigy.net)).

      I have an idea for building a GigaJoule laser out of simple materials. The power source might seem outlandish at first but very viable in the end. This laser would be based upon the nitrogen laser. It would be constructed out of a glass or PVC pipe 4 inches x 100 feet evacuated to 25 Torr filled with nitrogen gas from probably LN or a decomposition reaction and the electrodes will be made out of band saw material (because it stands heat real well). The laser would be operated in a thunderstorm. You already know how to attract lightning using wires attached to rockets. I estimate its power to be equal to about 14.8 GigaJoules based on the charge and voltage of your typical lightning bolt and the expected (very precisely computer) efficiency of a nitrogen laser:

      • LBC = One standard Lighting Bolt Charge: 10,000 Coulombs.
      • LBV = One standard Lighting Bolt Noltage: 200,000,000 Volts.
      • NLE = Nitrogen Laser Efficiency: .00074 (.074 percent).
      Then, output energy will be: LBC * LBV * NLE = 14.8 GigaJoules. If anybody is foolish enough to try this just imagine what you could do with that burst of power ionize the upper layer of atmosphere and create a blackout or pump a dye laser and drill yourself a hole in a mountain. DON'T think about all of the fun you would have with this and DO think about the real possibility of being fried to a crisp.



    13. Back to Home-Built Lasers Sub-Table of Contents.

      Home-Built Helium-Mercury (HeHg) Laser

      Introduction to Home-Built HeHg Laser

      The helium-mercury (HeHg) laser is very similar in many respects to the HeNe and Ar/Kr ion lasers both in terms of operation and level of difficulty. A medium vacuum system and some glass work will be needed. This laser can generate intense pulses of light in the green (567 nm) and less intense pulses in the red-orange (615 nm) portion of the visible spectrum.

      HeHg Laser Construction References and Links

      See the Amateur Scientist article in Scientific American (October, 1980). Also:
      • Gas Laser Technology, Sinclair and Bell, ISBN 03-075385-6, has plans for a two meter long Scientific American style design and a hollow cathode design excited by a thyratron based pulser, it does 10 W pulsed on the red line.

      Home-Built HeHg Laser Description

      The HeHg laser is similar in basic structure to the HeNe and Ar/Kr ion lasers but is in some ways easier to construct, align, and operate.

      Refer to Typical Home-Built Helium-Mercury Laser Assembly for a simplified diagram of the overall glasswork and power supply electronics.

      • Level of difficulty (rated L=low, M=medium, H=high):

        • Glass work - M.
        • Fabrication (other than glass work) - M.
        • Vacuum/gas handling - M.
        • Additional apparatus - optical mirror alignment jig.
        • Power supply - M.
        • Risks (high voltage, toxic chemicals, etc.) - M.

      • Resonator:

        • Type/lasing medium - Low pressure He and Hg vapor.

        • Bore diameter - 13 mm; bore length - 107 cm.

        • Total tube length - includes additional space beyond the actual bore (e.g., to the center of the Brewster windows) - 122 cm.

        • Tube material - Borosilicate (Pyrex) glass except for the Brewster windows which are fused quartz. Soda-lime glass parts could also be used for the tube (since it doesn't run particularly hot) to ease the glass working requirements (no oxygen fed torch required) but take care if you are interested in boosting power by playing with the power supply ratings!

        • Electrodes - Cold cathode type using coated neon sign electrodes. These are mounted in side-side-arms.

        • Gas fill - helium and mercury vapor (from a drop of mercury contained in a central side/bottom tube at a .5 to 1 Torr.

        • Cooling - Convection air.

        • Coupling - Quartz windows, Brewster angle = 34.43 degrees from axis for 567.7 nm. Since this is a multi-wavelength laser like the Ar/Kr ion type, mounting these on ball-and-socket joints might result in slightly better performance for any given line but the improvement would probably very slight.

        • Mirrors - Dichroic, concave, f = 147 cm; Reflectivity of 99.5 percent at 567.7 nm. Three screw Adjustable Mirror Mount at each end. Alignment can use any of the techniques from this document or "Light and its Uses".

        • Total resonator length (mirror face to mirror face) - 140 cm.

      • Vacuum system:

        • Requirements - medium. Article calls shows diffusion pump but suggests that this isn't really needed.

        • Sealed tube operation but temperature of mercury reservoir must be adjusted to control vapor pressure and connection to vacuum system is needed. See the section HeHg Laser Sealed Tube Operation?.

      • Special chemicals/supplies required - small quantity of liquid mercury. CAUTION: Fumes and compounds of mercury are poisonous.

      • Excitation/Pumping:

        • Type - electrical discharge.

        • Power supply - 9,000 VRMS, 20 mA neon sign transformer and Variac with bridge rectifier and 10 nF (.01 uF), 15 KV capacitor.
        
                                                            D1
            H o--------+ T1                T2   +--------+--|>|--+--+-------+---o HV+
                        )||               ||=||(         |       |  |       |
                 Variac )<--------------+ || ||(         |  D2   |  |       |
                 0-110V )||              )|| ||(      +--|--|>|--+  |       /
                     3A )||    Neon Sign )|| ||(      |  |         _|_ C1   \ R1
                        )||  Transformer )|| || +--+  |  |         --- 10nF / 100M
                    +--+        9KV,20mA )|| ||(   |  |  |  D3      |  15KV \ 5W
                    |                    )|| ||(   |  |  +--|<|--+  |       | 20KV
            N o-----+-------------------+ || ||(   |  |          |  |       |
                                          ||=||(   |  |     D4   |  |       |
                                          |   | +--|--+-----|<|--+--+-------+--o HV-
                                          |   |    |
            G o---------------------------+---+----+
                                                  _|_
                                                 ////
        
        

      Garrett's HeHg Laser Design

      This is very similar to the HeHg laser described above. However, it is about twice as large and therefore capable of higher power operation. (This design may be similar to a HeHg laser described in: "Gas Laser Technology", Sinclair and Bell, ISBN 03-075385-6). It may be able to generate up to several watts on the red-orange line (615 nm) and green line (567 nm). Also see the section: Estimating HeHg Laser Power.

      Refer to Typical Home-Built Helium-Mercury Laser Assembly for a simplified diagram of the overall glasswork and power supply electronics which should be similar except for the dimensions.

      (Specifications from: Garrett Hansen (gldhansen@worldnet.att.net)).

      • Level of difficulty (rated L=low, M=medium, H=high):

        • Glass work - M.
        • Fabrication (other than glass work) - M.
        • Vacuum/gas handling - M.
        • Additional apparatus - optical mirror alignment jig.
        • Power supply - M.
        • Risks (high voltage, toxic chemicals, etc.) - M.

      • Resonator:

        • Type/lasing medium - Low pressure He and Hg vapor.

        • Bore diameter - 18 mm; bore length - 180 cm.

        • Total tube length - includes additional space beyond the actual bore (e.g., to the center of the Brewster windows) - 190 cm.

        • Tube material - Borosilicate (Pyrex) glass (20 mm OD, 18 mm ID) except for the Brewster windows which are fused quartz.

        • Electrodes - Cold cathode type using coated neon sign electrodes. These are mounted in Pyrex side-arms.

        • Gas fill - helium and mercury vapor (from a drop of mercury contained in a central side/bottom tube. Gas pressure should not be above 1.5 Torr. Helium can be admitted to the tube to change the wavelength of the laser beam.

        • Cooling - Convection air.

        • Coupling - Quartz windows, Brewster angle = 34.43 degrees from axis for 567.7 nm.

        • Mirrors - Dichroic, concave, f = 230 cm; Reflectivity of 99.5 percent at 567.7 nm. Three screw Adjustable Mirror Mount at each end.

        • Total resonator length (mirror face to mirror face) - 200 cm.

      • Vacuum system:

        • Requirements - medium. Two stage mechanical pump capable of .1 Torr.

        • Sealed tube operation but temperature of mercury reservoir must be adjusted to control vapor pressure and connection to vacuum system is needed. See the section HeHg Laser Sealed Tube Operation?.

      • Special chemicals/supplies required - small quantity of liquid mercury. CAUTION: Fumes and compounds of mercury are poisonous.

      • Excitation/Pumping:

        • Type - electrical discharge.

        • Power supply: 15 kV 60 mA neon transformer and variac, bridge rectifier made from HVC1200 silicon diodes charging a 20 nF, 35 KV capacitor, and a spark gap switch with electrodes spaced at .4 inches.
        
                                                         D1              Spark Gap
         H o--------+ T1                T2   +--------+--|>|--+--+-------+--> <---o HV+
                     )||               ||=||(         |       |  |       |
              Variac )<--------------+ || ||(         |  D2   |  |       |
              0-110V )||              )|| ||(      +--|--|>|--+  |       /
                 15A )||    Neon Sign )|| ||(      |  |         _|_ C1   \ R1
                     )||  Transformer )|| || +--+  |  |         --- 20nF / 100M
                 +--+       15KV,60mA )|| ||(   |  |  |  D3      |  35KV \ 25W
                 |                    )|| ||(   |  |  +--|<|--+  |       | 35KV
         N o-----+-------------------+ || ||(   |  |          |  |       |
                                       ||=||(   |  |     D4   |  |       |
                                       |   | +--|--+-----|<|--+--+-------+--------o HV-
                                       |   |    |  D1-D4: HVC1200
         G o---------------------------+---+----+
                                               _|_
                                              ////
        
        

      Status of Chris's HeHg Laser

      (From: Chris Chagaris (pyro@grolen.com)).

      I am just about to finally complete a mercury vapor laser as per the SciAm plans. All that I have left to do is polish flat the brewster angle cuts at either end of the plasma tube so my quartz windows will fit snugly. I am looking forward to many hours of exciting experimentation with this rare type of laser. I will get some pictures of the completed system to you as soon as I can.

      Estimating HeHg Laser Power

      I have a hard enough time estimating power output from a conventional optimized HeNe laser let alone something like this with so many variables including: discharge length, bore diameter, Brewster window losses, mirror reflectivity, gas fill, current peak magnitude and wave shape, etc. All other factors being equal without (and without limiting effects), a rough estimate might suggest that output power is proportional to the volume of the lasing discharge and peak current - but I don't even know how valid that is! I think the gain of the HeHg laser is high enough that a wide variety of tube lengths and diameters will work with the recommended mirrors (99.5% reflectivity at 567 nm, confocal or concave/planar) but I cannot begin to estimate power.

      I gather from the "Light and its Uses" HeHg laser description that while the laser produced 'intense pulses of green and red light', the average output power wasn't more than a mW or so. Even a 1 mW of 567 nm green would appear quite intense - 4 or 5 times brighter than 1 mW of 632.8 red.

      Also see the section: Comments on HeHg Lasers.

      HeHg Laser Sealed Tube Operation?

      Although in principle, the HeHg laser can be operated in 'sealed tube' fashion, as a practical matter, maintaining a connection to the vacuum system will be essential. The main reason is that once mercury vapor condenses on parts of the tube away from the side/bottom tube with the mercury drop, you have lost control of the vapor pressure (since the whole tube cannot be cooled/warmed as required). Thus, the need to be able to pump it down if the pressure rises too high and then supply fresh helium. So, it may be possible to run the HeHg laser with the valve to the vacuum system closed, the valve will still have to be present!

      However, a tube full of mercury vapor at a couple of Torr is not much material so a drop of mercury should go a long way. In addition to losses out the vacuum system and by condensation on the tube walls, some may form an amalgum with the metal of the electrodes or their lead-in wires (depending on the metals involved), be adsorbed by the tube walls or Epoxy seals (if used), or be buried under sputtered electrode material.

      Also see the section: Comments on HeHg Lasers.

      Discussion of Potential Problems in Constructing HeHg Laser

      (From: Richard Alexander (RAlexan290@gnn.com)).

      Just off the top of my head, I'd say the problem with it is the mercury. That is toxic stuff, and it goes right through your skin. Make it a vapor and you would breath it. The less you fool with it, the better off you are.

      Another problem might be that mercury is expensive. A pint jar of mercury would be worth hundreds or thousands of dollars (well, a lot, anyway). The same amount of copper would be worth only a few dollars.

      (From: David Demmer (ddemmer@physics.utoronto.ca)).

      Nah, in an earlier life I was a chemist, and demonstrated a physical chemistry lab that used a Toppler pump. For the uninitiated, this consists of some ingenious glassware and about 500 mL of mercury. The stuff is really pretty cheap when bought in quantity: actually about $100/kg for reagent grade from Aldrich. Of course a kg is a smallish volume because it's surprisingly dense stuff.

      As for a laser like a helium-mercury vapour laser, the amount of mercury necessary is actually pretty small. And besides, expense doesn't stop anybody using a gold vapour laser. The cost of the fill is trivial compared with capital and other operating costs.

      Toxicity, too, never stopped anybody from using HF, F2, etc. in their excimer lasers.

      So, while not knowing the answer to the fellow's question, I guess I'm saying that I don't agree with yours.

      (From: Richard Alexander (RAlexan290@gnn.com)).

      Well, it looks like you pretty well stopped my argument for the expense, but I think toxicity is still in play. In defense of that argument, I present my belief that excimer lasers are used mostly in industrial settings, away from most people (ok, I know there are medical excimers that offer some interesting promise).

      Maybe it's not too late for me to agree with the other poster that the wavelength put out by a mercury vapor laser is better produced by another type of laser. (I've had this discussion before, several years ago. It's just taking time for me to remember what I was told.) It seems like it isn't worth the bother of making the laser when HeNe and Argon Ion cover whatever the Hg vapor laser will do (ok, I admit I don't remember what lasers cover the Hg vapor laser wavelengths. You get the gist of my hazy memories.)

      (From: Herman de Jong (h.m.m.dejong@phys.tue.nl)).

      Mercury is used in home used thermometers, in thermostat switches for heating the home, in tilting switches, in high power reed switches, in TL end related light tubes etc.

      The mercury laser uses maybe a few milligrams/year and it could be trapped in an amalgam with silver, copper, zinc, not iron, about the only exception. this effectively blocks mercury from reaching the pump.

      A thermometer contains maybe a few hundred milligrams this is no problem.

      (From: Herman de Jong (h.m.m.dejong@phys.tue.nl)).

      I agree with you David.

      If I remember right the CW laser wasn't peculiarly intense but it had low (single ended) optical feedback and the length of the vapour was a few feet. and it was a DC discharge at a few KV with a neon transformer. It needs a Helium flushing bottle and a vacuum pump. At that wavelength it probably can't compete with the more powerful Ar+ lasers (514 nm, some are sealed) and the much simpler green HeNe(sealed). The Neon transformer (6 KV, 100 mA?) suggests also very poor efficiency. But for your home built laser it is a nice project and even the vacuum pump can be very cheap by using the compressor from a discarded air conditioner, refrigerator, or freezer.

      The expensive setup would only be acceptable it the power could be high. I suspect the population of the concerning state densities to be low although they have very high absorption/stimulated emission probabilities. This means the Sc.Am. is probably operating near saturation and it is hard to increase output energy. More length will have a linear effect, higher vapour pressure (T) is complicated. Maybe a different kind of discharge favors the population of concerning states but it could be a lot more complicated then this.

      Comments on HeHg Lasers

      (From Steve Roberts (osteven@akrobiz.com)).

      I did a bit of a literature search on the helium-mercury laser.

      The Scientific American design is gain limited, but the power scales with tube diameter up to say 2 inches, and gain scales pretty much proportionally to length as well. The laser not only emits in the green and red, but has many lines in the IR around 1.2 to 1.8 microns. It has lased continuously on the visible lines in a hollow cathode type tube. It is also super-radient. It lases after the excitation pulse has almost died out (lases in afterglow). For all intents and purposes it seems like a ideal low cost laser and would probably be useful to someone.

      However I've noted two things, No one ever seems to have measured the output power, save for one citation listed below and two, papers stopped appearing on it after 1970 or so. One wonders if it does not have some major fault, as it was discovered by one of Spectra-Physics chief scientists, and yet nobody makes it commercially?

    14. Gas Laser Technology, Sinclair and Bell, ISBN 03-075385-6

      The above book has plans for a two meter long Scientific American style design and a hollow cathode design excited by a thyratron based pulser, it does 10 W pulsed on the red line.

      This still leaves the question, Why is it not in Use?

      (From: David Demmer (ddemmer@physics.utoronto.ca)).

      Well done!

      The large bore size and scaling sound a lot like a copper or gold vapour laser, i.e. unstable or planar multimode resonator. This would make it lose out to, say a Kr ion laser for beam quality, and a copper/gold vapour for raw power in the green or red.

      On a different note, I don't know that the phrases "ideal low cost" and "thyratron based" should appear in the same discussion ;->.

      (From: Sam).

      Aside from the cost issue of a thyratron pulsar, the need to keep fiddling with the gas pressure/fill to maintain laser action in an efficient and stable manner could be a factor in the lack of commercial viability. Unlike a fluorescent or high pressure discharge lamp using mercury vapor, the HeHg laser would appear to operate at a very low pressure (1 or 2 Torr) where a stable gas fill could not easily be achieved. Therefore, some possibly complex and costly feedback mechanism would be needed to produce a viable product (possibly along the lines of a low flow CO2 laser). This may push it over the cliff so to speak when compared to alternatives like those mentioned above. Then again, perhaps it was a simple business decision to go with Ar/Kr ion rather than HeHg and now that any patents have run out, they are just keeping its potential benefits and ease of construction quiet. :-)



    15. Back to Home-Built Lasers Sub-Table of Contents.

      Home-Built Copper Chloride (CuCl) and Copper Bromide (CuBr) Laser

      Introduction to Home-Built CuCl and CuBr Laser

      The copper chloride (CuCl) and copper bromide (CuBr) lasers are variations of the copper vapor laser. By starting with a halide of copper rather than pure metal, these lasers can operate at lower temperatures than required to produce copper in vapor form. However, the copper must be dissociated from its halogen atoms to lase. For this reason, power requirements are somewhat unusual in that a pair of high voltage pulses in rapid succession is needed to operate the laser: The first separates the Cu and Cl or Br atoms and the second pumps the Cu atoms to the required upper energy state for lasing to take place.

      Since, the lifetime of the separate atoms is short, this must be repeated for each activation of the laser. This makes the power supply design a bit more interesting than the run-of-the-mill neon sign transformer! Also they are pulsed lasers but at a high enough repetition rate, the output will appear continuous.

      This can be accomplished by a simple but brute-force motor driven distributor somewhat like that used in an automotive ignition or by a fancy sophisticated solid state power supply. The former looks and sounds like something out of a bad Sci-Fi movie (or nightmare, take your pick) but works!

      Like the N2 laser, CuCl and CuBr lasers do not need a resonator to operate. The design in "Light and its Uses" uses a mirror at one end and an *unsilvered* piece of glass at the other (output) end. (Of course, plain glass will act as a partial reflector - reflecting about 4% at zero-degree incidence).

      (From: Steve Quest (Squest@galileo.cris.com)).

      Most lasers need to resonate to build up emission. However, copper vapor lasers would damage themselves if they were allowed to resonate. There is so much photonic emission you only need one mirror, the back mirror in the cavity of a Cu laser. One pass through the cavity is enough, Cu lasers produce hundreds of watts per pulse!

      CuCl/CuBr Laser Construction References and Links

      In addition to the Amateur Scientist article in Scientific American (April, 1990), the following should be of interest: